CROATIA
The Herald Magazine Saturday February 18, 2023
Back into the Mediterranean blue
A Croatian reminder of why travel is good for the soul
IT’S weird, but as a veteran of more than 140 countries who has spent over 35 years of my life travelling for a living,
I actually felt a degree of trepidation after Covid, when going back on a
foreign trip. Luckily, for my first journey
back I chose a destination that is among my
favourite places in Europe, and boy, it was
nice to get back travelling.
Croatia has so much going for it, and both
Split and the island of Hvar are amazing
destinations. The easyJet flight was simple
enough (and as an Edinburgher it was an
added bonus to find that the Holiday Inn at
Glasgow airport has at last given the hotel
a makeover so a stop and meal there is now
an actual pleasure).
On arrival at Split’s shiny new airport I
was cheered to find that the booking.com
transfer had worked, and a friendly driver
was waiting to scoot me to the impressive
Radisson Blu Hotel. This is a star in Split’s
hotel scene. It’s on the beach, so not central,
but the 15-minute drive is certainly worth it.
Ivan – my Uber-driver – absolutely loves the
Scots so he gave me a special rate for every
ride in Split that I needed.
Once at the Radisson Blu, the early
morning alarm call mattered a lot less to
me as the facilities started to kick in. The
rooms there are large, incredibly well-put together,
and the meal I had on my first
night in their Caper Grill restaurant was
simply superb (best octopus salad ever).
It also has an impressive spa and it’s a
four-star hotel at the price of a three-star –
typical of Croatia.
Split has so much to recommend it.
Obviously, the highlight is the mind-boggling
fourth-century Diocletian’s
Palace, which dominates the old town. The
old cobbled streets are full of individual
boutiques, art galleries and cafes, and don’t
miss the fish market from where hails the
wonderful seafood and fish served in the
local restaurants.
Sample the delights from this outlet at its
best in Zoi – arguably the best restaurant
in Split. Located in Diocletian’s Palace
with views over the water, this is rich
Mediterranean cuisine at its best. Simply
wonderful fresh food.
Now for the topical angle – the whole
world knows about Bond, James Bond,
but not many know this. According to my
well-informed Tourist Board guide, JB
himself was “born” on the island of Hvar.
His name was Gian Francesco Biondi or, in
Croatian, Ivan Frane Biundiović. He was,
among many other things, His Majesty’s
spy and wrote the first history of England.
According to the legend, Ian Fleming
tailored the character of the famous spy –
well there you go, you read it here first.
Taking the catamaran from Split to
Hvar on a Saturday morning is not for the
faint-hearted. The complete lack of signage,
information and sheer pressure of pushing
and shoving crowds remind you of Ryanair
in the days before allocated seating. After
an hour on Kapetan Luka’s vessel, however,
the relaxation begins.
Hvar is simply stunning. It’s the Monte
Carlo of Croatia (with super-yachts and
prices to match). It’s also a venue for
nightlife (Prince Harry favoured the
Veneranda Club) and the yacht set swan
about in their designer labels in abundance.
This island really does have “the lot”.
It’s allegedly the sunniest island in Europe,
and it definitely does have beautiful clear
turquoise water, breathtaking views and a
plethora of pinewoods. One caveat – the
beaches are mainly stony, so ensure your
hotel has a good swimming pool.
Hvar has the most historical UNESCO
heritage of any island anywhere. This little
island also has the biggest town square on
Dalmatian coast and it’s the epicentre of
civic life, with the cathedral on one side and
a beautiful City Hall on the other. If you
were to design a Mediterranean paradise
island, this is exactly how it would look.
The Hvar Theatre, in the Arsenal
building, with its beautiful velvet-clad
spectator boxes, was built in 1612 and was
the first communal theatre in Renaissance
Europe. It’s a definite on the sightseeing
list. But, the thing about Hvar is that, as in
Venice, the best way to enjoy it is simply to
lose yourself in the labyrinth of its beautiful
old cobbled streets.
OK, if you really can be
bothered, climb up to the
hilltop fortress, which has
been watching over the city for
more than five centuries (but
frankly it’s a bit like Stonehenge – best seen
from a distance as there’s not much there,
after all that effort).
Reading this, you don’t need me to say
much more – just trust me, go to Split and
Hvar. So, accepting the premise that now
you may be going, the most useful thing I
Travel notes
easyJet offers flights from Glasgow-Split from
£250 return: easyJet.com
Hotels in Split
Radisson Blu, rooms from £105: radissonhotels.
com. Le Merien: marriott.co.uk
Hotels on Hvar
suncanihvar.com
can do is tell you where to stay and eat. I
trolled round a lot of options and this is my
honest assessment.
I stayed in two contrasting hotels.
The first (my definite favourite) was the
Adriana Hotel & Spa. The harbour setting
(overlooking the super-yachts) is unbeatable.
Then there’s the fantastic rooftop bar; the
huge indoor swimming pool and spa; the
waterfront terrace restaurant on which you
eat breakfast – all in all I can’t say enough
about this place. And it’s a steal with prices
starting from 174 euros including breakfast.
The second hotel – the Amfora – is more
of a large resort, with outdoor pools, a
family atmosphere and buffet meals. Prices
there are from 137 euros a night, but I did
notice that Jet2 also sell packages there,
so that’s possibly a cheaper option. It’s a
fun and buzzing big hotel, but as an “older
lady”, I’d stick to the Adriana …
Both hotels are owned by the company
Suncani Hvar. It has have the monopoly
on Hvar so pretty much all the good hotels
and restaurants are under its umbrella.
TRAVEL
The absolute jewel in the company’s crown
though is the Palace Elisabeth, and for a
meal to truly savour try the degustation
menu in their San Marco terrace restaurant.
For 92 euros you’ll get a magical experience
of seven courses and the setting is simply
divine –a five-star hotel built in the
residential complex of the Duke’s Palace
on the main town square. The food, service
and ambience are all truly exceptional.
From starched white napkins and silver
service it was off the next evening to
wonderful Dalmatian peasant food and
a place where you can arrive in shorts
and sandals (and where a lot of the superyacht
crews hang out). Take a 15-minute
speedboat ride over to Palmižana on the
neighbouring island of Sveti Klement.
Thank God I wore flats (and brought
insect repellent) but after a 10-minute hike
I was in one of the most chilled places I’ve
been in years – a million miles away from
the huge wealth on show on Hvar. This is
The Art Resort, owned by the wonderfully
eccentric Romina Meneghello. You can stay
in one of her villas or, like me, just eat there.
There’s art everywhere – from funny fat
nudes to slightly more serious works – the
place is a blast. See www.palmizana.com
Another restaurant well worth
pre-booking is Passarola. It serves
Mediterranean cuisine with a heavy focus
on risotto, pasta, delicious seafood and
meat of all varieties. It has a romantic
rooftop setting in the Old Town. The last
place to pre-book is Giaxa – a modern
restaurant in a 15th-century palace with the
emphasis on all-local cuisine.
You’ll have to return to Split to fly back
and as the flight to Glasgow is an early
start it makes sense to spend your last night
there. Though I didn’t stay there I ate on my
last night at the beautiful Meridien Hotel
Lav in adjacent Podstrana (15 minutes away
from Split). If you want a classic large beach
resort it’s definitely worth considering.
With its own marina, four restaurants,
spa and kids’ clubs, it’d be a great choice
for a luxury family holiday. The food is
suitably five-star, but at four-star prices. I
intend to go back at some point with the
grandchildren.
But that’s the thing about Croatia – you
really do get excellent value for money, and
with direct flights from Scotland, what’s not
to like?
28 The Herald Magazine Saturday February 18, 2023 Saturday February 18, 2023 The Herald Magazine 29
Back into the Mediterranean blue A Croatian
reminder of why travel is good for the soul
KATIE WOOD
IT’S weird, but as a veteran of more than 140 countries who has spent over 35 years of my life travelling for a living,
I actually felt a degree of trepidation
after Covid, when going back on a
foreign trip. Luckily, for my first journey
back I chose a destination that is among my
favourite places in Europe, and boy, it was
nice to get back travelling.
Croatia has so much going for it, and both
Split and the island of Hvar are amazing
destinations. The easyJet flight was simple
enough (and as an Edinburgher it was an
added bonus to find that the Holiday Inn at
Glasgow airport has at last given the hotel
a makeover so a stop and meal there is now
an actual pleasure).
On arrival at Split’s shiny new airport I
was cheered to find that the booking.com
transfer had worked, and a friendly driver
was waiting to scoot me to the impressive
Radisson Blu Hotel. This is a star in Split’s
hotel scene. It’s on the beach, so not central,
but the 15-minute drive is certainly worth it.
Ivan – my Uber-driver – absolutely loves the
Scots so he gave me a special rate for every
ride in Split that I needed.
Once at the Radisson Blu, the early
morning alarm call mattered a lot less to
me as the facilities started to kick in. The
rooms there are large, incredibly well-puttogether,
and the meal I had on my first
night in their Caper Grill restaurant was
simply superb (best octopus salad ever).
It also has an impressive spa and it’s a
four-star hotel at the price of a three-star –
typical of Croatia.
Split has so much to recommend it.
Obviously, the highlight is the mindboggling
fourth-century Diocletian’s
Palace, which dominates the old town. The
old cobbled streets are full of individual
boutiques, art galleries and cafes, and don’t
miss the fish market from where hails the
wonderful seafood and fish served in the
local restaurants.
Sample the delights from this outlet at its
best in Zoi – arguably the best restaurant
in Split. Located in Diocletian’s Palace
with views over the water, this is rich
Mediterranean cuisine at its best. Simply
wonderful fresh food.
Now for the topical angle – the whole
world knows about Bond, James Bond,
but not many know this. According to my
well-informed Tourist Board guide, JB
himself was “born” on the island of Hvar.
His name was Gian Francesco Biondi or, in
Croatian, Ivan Frane Biundiović. He was,
among many other things, His Majesty’s
spy and wrote the first history of England.
According to the legend, Ian Fleming
tailored the character of the famous spy –
well there you go, you read it here first.
Taking the catamaran from Split to
Hvar on a Saturday morning is not for the
faint-hearted. The complete lack of signage,
information and sheer pressure of pushing
and shoving crowds remind you of Ryanair
in the days before allocated seating. After
an hour on Kapetan Luka’s vessel, however,
the relaxation begins.
Hvar is simply stunning. It’s the Monte
Carlo of Croatia (with super-yachts and
prices to match). It’s also a venue for
nightlife (Prince Harry favoured the
Veneranda Club) and the yacht set swan
about in their designer labels in abundance.
This island really does have “the lot”.
It’s allegedly the sunniest island in Europe,
and it definitely does have beautiful clear
turquoise water, breathtaking views and a
plethora of pinewoods. One caveat – the
beaches are mainly stony, so ensure your
hotel has a good swimming pool.
Hvar has the most historical UNESCO
heritage of any island anywhere. This little
island also has the biggest town square on
Dalmatian coast and it’s the epicentre of
civic life, with the cathedral on one side and
a beautiful City Hall on the other. If you
were to design a Mediterranean paradise
island, this is exactly how it would look.
The Hvar Theatre, in the Arsenal
building, with its beautiful velvet-clad
spectator boxes, was built in 1612 and was
the first communal theatre in Renaissance
Europe. It’s a definite on the sightseeing
list. But, the thing about Hvar is that, as in
Venice, the best way to enjoy it is simply to
lose yourself in the labyrinth of its beautiful
old cobbled streets.
OK, if you really can be
bothered, climb up to the
hilltop fortress, which has
been watching over the city for
more than five centuries (but
frankly it’s a bit like Stonehenge – best seen
from a distance as there’s not much there,
after all that effort).
Reading this, you don’t need me to say
much more – just trust me, go to Split and
Hvar. So, accepting the premise that now
you may be going, the most useful thing I
Travel notes
easyJet offers flights from Glasgow-Split from
£250 return: easyJet.com
Hotels in Split
Radisson Blu, rooms from £105: radissonhotels.
com. Le Merien: marriott.co.uk
Hotels on Hvar
suncanihvar.com
can do is tell you where to stay and eat. I
trolled round a lot of options and this is my
honest assessment.
I stayed in two contrasting hotels.
The first (my definite favourite) was the
Adriana Hotel & Spa. The harbour setting
(overlooking the super-yachts) is unbeatable.
Then there’s the fantastic rooftop bar; the
huge indoor swimming pool and spa; the
waterfront terrace restaurant on which you
eat breakfast – all in all I can’t say enough
about this place. And it’s a steal with prices
starting from 174 euros including breakfast.
The second hotel – the Amfora – is more
of a large resort, with outdoor pools, a
family atmosphere and buffet meals. Prices
there are from 137 euros a night, but I did
notice that Jet2 also sell packages there,
so that’s possibly a cheaper option. It’s a
fun and buzzing big hotel, but as an “older
lady”, I’d stick to the Adriana …
Both hotels are owned by the company
Suncani Hvar. It has have the monopoly
on Hvar so pretty much all the good hotels
and restaurants are under its umbrella.
TRAVEL
The absolute jewel in the company’s crown
though is the Palace Elisabeth, and for a
meal to truly savour try the degustation
menu in their San Marco terrace restaurant.
For 92 euros you’ll get a magical experience
of seven courses and the setting is simply
divine –a five-star hotel built in the
residential complex of the Duke’s Palace
on the main town square. The food, service
and ambience are all truly exceptional.
From starched white napkins and silver
service it was off the next evening to
wonderful Dalmatian peasant food and
a place where you can arrive in shorts
and sandals (and where a lot of the superyacht
crews hang out). Take a 15-minute
speedboat ride over to Palmižana on the
neighbouring island of Sveti Klement.
Thank God I wore flats (and brought
insect repellent) but after a 10-minute hike
I was in one of the most chilled places I’ve
been in years – a million miles away from
the huge wealth on show on Hvar. This is
The Art Resort, owned by the wonderfully
eccentric Romina Meneghello. You can stay
in one of her villas or, like me, just eat there.
There’s art everywhere – from funny fat
nudes to slightly more serious works – the
place is a blast. See www.palmizana.com
Another restaurant well worth
pre-booking is Passarola. It serves
Mediterranean cuisine with a heavy focus
on risotto, pasta, delicious seafood and
meat of all varieties. It has a romantic
rooftop setting in the Old Town. The last
place to pre-book is Giaxa – a modern
restaurant in a 15th-century palace with the
emphasis on all-local cuisine.
You’ll have to return to Split to fly back
and as the flight to Glasgow is an early
start it makes sense to spend your last night
there. Though I didn’t stay there I ate on my
last night at the beautiful Meridien Hotel
Lav in adjacent Podstrana (15 minutes away
from Split). If you want a classic large beach
resort it’s definitely worth considering.
With its own marina, four restaurants,
spa and kids’ clubs, it’d be a great choice
for a luxury family holiday. The food is
suitably five-star, but at four-star prices. I
intend to go back at some point with the
grandchildren.
But that’s the thing about Croatia – you
really do get excellent value for money, and
with direct flights from Scotland, what’s not
to like?