A vine romance
Katie Wood is intoxicated by mountainous Mendoza, underexplored heart of the Argentinian wine industry – and says now is a great time to sup with the locals
There are three good reasons to go to Argentina this year. First, the cost of living will bring a smile to even the most-budget conscious traveller’s face. Second, the people are welcoming. Third, despite the enormous beauty of the country, international tourism is still in its infancy. Add in a good climate and fantastic food and wine, and you’ll realise that this is a great place to visit.
It was to learn more about wine tourism that I recently travelled to Mendoza – the wine-growing heart of Argentina. With over 180,000 acres under cultivation, producing 1.3 million tonnes of grapes, this is the home of familiar brands including Argento, Norton and Santa Julia – they all come from Mendoza’s 16 wine-producing departments. No surprise here, perhaps: the region is roughly the same distance from the Equator as the premier grape-growing regions of France, Italy and California.
What sets Mendoza apart is the high-altitude terroir. Many of its vineyards sit between 800 and 1,500 metres above sea level in the foothills of the Andes, where intense sunshine, cool nights and meltwater irrigation produce grapes of remarkable concentration. It is this combination that has made Malbec, once an obscure French variety, into Argentina’s signature red and the calling card of the region around the world.
Visiting the bodegas is refreshingly informal. Unlike the more buttoned-up estates of Bordeaux, many Mendoza wineries welcome casual visitors for tastings and tours, and a growing number pair their wines with first-class restaurants making the most of Argentina’s famous beef. A day spent cycling or driving between the cellars of Lujan de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, with the snow-capped Andes as a backdrop, is one of South America’s most rewarding wine experiences.
Beyond the vines, Mendoza city itself is leafy and relaxed, built around a series of squares and irrigated by canals that keep it green despite the surrounding semi-desert. It makes an ideal base for adventure too, with white-water rafting, horse riding and trekking all within easy reach, and the highest peak in the Americas, Aconcagua, looming a short drive to the west. For travellers seeking value, character and genuine warmth, Argentina’s wine country remains one of the great undiscovered pleasures.
